Today was a break day. We traveled from Logroño, where our first leg ended, to Sarria, the starting point of our second leg. In the midst of that six-hour bus ride, I scheduled a three-hour stop in León, a city rich in history and beauty.
The crown jewel of León is undoubtedly the magnificent León Cathedral, known as the “Cathedral of Light.” Built on the site of ancient Roman baths, the present Gothic structure was constructed in the 13th century, beginning in 1253 and finishing about 50 years later. This rapid construction was an incredible feat for the time, especially considering the city's small population of about 5,000. The cathedral’s design was heavily influenced by the Gothic cathedrals of France, featuring high vaults, flying buttresses, and extensive use of stained glass, which allows light to flood the interior.
The stained glass windows of León Cathedral are unlike anything else on the Camino. These windows depict biblical stories, saints, and intricate patterns that transform the light into a kaleidoscope of colors.
After exiting the bus we weaved through the streets to the city center. When we arrived at the Cathedral, I stopped in my tracks, quickly found a bar for a café con leche, and sat there staring at the cathedral for about 20 minutes. Once inside, I again sat in the back, taking in the magnificence. I honestly teared up a little at its beauty and thinking of the sacrifices made over the last 800 years to make that moment possible. We spent a good hour just admiring the craftsmanship and elegance.
How on earth did they stack stone upon stone to such heights without a crane? Using simple machines to create such a glorious structure seems impossible. The question kept going around in my mind. Not only how did they do it, but why? They contributed their resources, skills, and time to work on a project many would never see completed. They did it for the glory of God, and they did it for pilgrims like me. They were great stewards of their gifts.